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Abstract
Recently, plants have been considered as a valuable natural source of cosmetic active ingredientsowing to their sustainability and weak toxicity. Thus, this study was conducted to investigate the cosmetic efficacy of Centaurea dimorpha Viv (Asteraceae), an endemic species of North Africa, as a promising natural cosmetic active ingredient. In the present study, Ethyl acetate and Butanolic extracts obtained from powdered Centaurea dimorpha aerial parts were investigated for their phenolic and flavonoid contents, which were evaluatedvia Folin-ciocalteu reagent and aluminium chloride methods, the in vitro antioxidant potential was evaluated by DPPH radical scavenging,phosphomolybdenum and phenanthroline assays, the UVB and broad spectrum protective efficacy was spectrophotometrically assessed by measuring SPF, UVA/UVB ratio and critical wavelength (CW) indices. The highest levels of TPC and TFCwere recorded by the ethyl-acetate extract (119.20 ± 0.32 µg GAE mg-1, 50.65 ± 0.43 µg QEmg-1, respectively). Similarly, this extract displayed a significant antioxidant effect, particularly in the phenanthroline assay (152.63 ± 0.49 µg AAEmg-1). Ethyl acetate extract also showed UVB and broad-spectrum (UVB-UVA) protective efficacy (SPF=12.30 ± 0.001, UVA/UVB ratio=0.63 ± 0.001, λc= 371). The results obtained show the possibility to use Ethyl acetate extract as a promising active ingredient for sunscreen formulations.
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This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.
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Azzouzi, S., Lefahal, M., Louaar, S., Makhloufi, E.-H., Medjroubi, K., & Akkal, S. (2024). Centaurea dimorpha Viv. (Asteraceae) growing in Algeria extracts as a promising natural cosmetic active ingredient: Broad-spectrum photoprotection and antioxidant efficacy. Journal of Agriculture and Applied Biology, 6(1), 1-12. https://doi.org/10.11594/jaab.06.01.01
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Dhouibi, N., Manuguerra, S., Arena, R., Mahdhi, A., Messina, C. M., Santulli, A., & Dhaouadi, H. (2020). Screening of antioxidant potentials and bioactive properties of the extracts ob-tained from two Centaurea L. species Centaurea kroumirensis Coss. & Centaurea sicula L. subspsicula. Applied Sciences, 10(7), 2267.
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Aktumsek, A., Zengin, G., Guler, G. O., Cakmak, Y. S., & Duran, A. (2013). Antioxidant potentials and anticholinesterase activities of methanolic and aqueous extracts of three endemic Cen-taurea L. species. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 55, 290–296.
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Almeida, M. M. B., de Sousa, P. H. M., Arriaga, Â. M. C., do Prado, G. M., de Carvalho Magalhães, C. E., Maia, G. A., & de Lemos, T. L. G. (2011). Bioactive compounds and antioxidant activity of fresh exotic fruits from northeastern Brazil. Food Research International, 44(7), 2155–2159.
Ayad, R., Cakmak, Y. S., Ozusaglam, M. A., Medjroubi, K., & Akkal, S. (2018). In vitro antioxidant and antimicrobial activities of aerial parts of Algerian Jurinea humilis DC (Asteraceae). Tropical Journal of Pharmaceutical Research, 16(12), 2903. CrossRef
Ayad, R., Keskinkaya, H. B., Atalar, M. N., Lefahal, M., Zaabat, N., Makhloufi, E. H., Demirtas, I., Trifa, W., Akkal, S., & Medjroubi, K. (2022). Jurinea humilis DC. polarextract: HPLC analysis, photoprotective, antioxidant activities and bioactive content. Chemistry Africa. 6, 827-836. CrossRef
Azzouzi, D., Bioud, K., Demirtas, I., Gul, F., Sarri, D., Benayache, S., Benayache, F., & Mekkiou, R. (2016). Phenolic profile and antioxidant activity of Centaurea choulettiana Pomel (Aster-aceae) extracts. Combinatorial Chemistry & High Throughput Screening, 19(10), 841-846. CrossRef
Bancheva, S., Badalamenti, N., & Bruno, M. (2022). The essential oil composition of Centaurea immanuelis-loewii Degen growing wild in Bulgaria and chemotaxonomy of section acrocen-tron. Natural Product Research, 36(20), 5289–5296. CrossRef
Belkassam, A., Zellagui, A., Gherraf, N., Flamini, G., Cioni, P. L., Rebbas, K., & Smaili, T. (2019). Assessment of antioxidant effect of the essential oil and methanol extract of Viv.aerial parts from Algeria. Acta Scientifica Naturalis, 6(1), 54–62.
Bensaad, M. S., Dassamiour, S., Hambaba, L., Bensouici, C., Karima, O., & Kahoul, M. A. (2021). HPLC-DAD phenolics screening and in vitro investigation of haemostatic, antidiabetic, anti-oxidant and photoprotective properties of Centaurea tougourensis Boiss. & Reut.Herba Po-lonica, 67(4), 16–31. CrossRef
Bibi, H., Iqbal, J., Ahsan Abbasi, B., Kanwal, S., Tavafoghi, M., Ahmed, M. Z., & Mahmood, T. (2024). Evaluation and chemical profiling of different Centaurea iberica extracts and inves-tigation of different in vitro biological activities. Journal of King Saud University - Science, 36(1), 102992. CrossRef
Boulacel, I., Harkati, B., Ayad, R., Demirtas, I., Laouer, H., & Akkal, S. (2019). Phytochemical stud-ies antibacterial and antioxidant activities of aerial parts of Ferula lutea (Poir.) Maire. Acta Scientifica Naturalis, 6(1), 17–25.
Caballero-Gallardo, K., Quintero, R. P., Stashenko, E. E., & Olivero, V. J. (2022). Photoprotective Agents Obtained from Aromatic Plants Grown in Colombia: Total Phenolic Content, Antioxi-dant Activity, and Assessment of Cytotoxic Potential in Cancer Cell Lines of Cymbopogon flexuosus L. and Tagetes lucida Cav. Essential Oils. Plants, 11(13), 1693. CrossRef
Cefali, L. C., Ataide, J. A., Moriel, P., Foglio, M. A., & Mazzola, P. G. (2016). Plant-based active pho-toprotectants for sunscreens. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 38(4), 346–353.
Cherfia, R., Zaiter, A., Akkal, S., Chaimbault, P., Abdelwahab, A. B., Kirsch, G., & Chaouche, N. K. (2020). New approach in the characterization of bioactive compounds isolated from Caly-cotome spinosa (L.) link leaves by the use of negative electrospray ionization LITMSn, LC-ESI-MS/MS, as well as NMR analysis. Bioorganic Chemistry, 96, 103535.
Dhouibi, N., Manuguerra, S., Arena, R., Mahdhi, A., Messina, C. M., Santulli, A., & Dhaouadi, H. (2020). Screening of antioxidant potentials and bioactive properties of the extracts ob-tained from two Centaurea L. species Centaurea kroumirensis Coss. & Centaurea sicula L. subspsicula. Applied Sciences, 10(7), 2267.
Diffey, B. L. (2007). A method for broad spectrum classification of sunscreens. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 16(2), 47–52. CrossRef
Downs, C. A., Kramarsky-Winter, E., Segal, R., Fauth, J., Knutson, S., Bronstein, O., Ciner, F. R., Jeger, R., Lichtenfeld, Y., & Woodley, C. M. (2016). Toxicopathological effects of the sun-screen UV filter, oxybenzone (benzophenone-3), on coral planulae and cultured primary cells and its environmental contamination in Hawaii and the US Virgin Islands. Archives of Environmental Contamination and Toxicology, 70, 265–288.
Ertas, A., Gören, A. C., Boga, M., Demirci, S., & Kolak, U. (2014). Chemical composition of the es-sential oils of three Centaureaspecies growing wild in Anatolia and their anticholinesterase activities. Journal of Essential Oil-Bearing Plants, 17(5), 922–926. CrossRef
Fattaheian-Dehkordi, S., Hojjatifard, R., Saeedi, M., & Khanavi, M. (2021). A review on antidiabet-ic activity of Centaurea spp.: A new approach for developing herbal remedies. Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 6, 1-23. CrossRef
Ferrero, L., Pissavini, M., &Doucet, O. (2010). How a calculated model of sunscreen film geome-try can explain in vitro and in vivo SPF variation. Photochemical & Photobiological Sciences, 9(4), 540–551. CrossRef
Ganesan, A., & Hanawalt, P. (2016). Photobiological origins of the field of genomic maintenance. Photochemistry and Photobiology, 92(1), 52–60.
Guan, L. L., Lim, H. W., & Mohammad, T. F. (2021). Sunscreens and photoaging: A review of cur-rent literature. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 22(6), 819–828.
Jansen, R., Osterwalder, U., Wang, S. Q., Burnett, M., & Lim, H. W. (2013). Photoprotection: Part II. Sunscreen: development, efficacy, and controversies. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 69(6), 867-e1.
Kebbi, S., Ciavatta, M. L., Mahmoud, A. M., Carbone, M., Ligresti, A., Seghiri, R., & Gavagnin, M. (2021). Sesquiterpene Lactones with the 12,8-Guaianolide skeleton from Algerian Centau-rea omphalotricha. Biomolecules, 11(7), 1053. CrossRef
Khammar, A., & Djeddi, S. (2012). Pharmacological and biological properties of some Centaurea species. European Journal of Scientific Research, 84(3), 398–416.
Kostyuk, V., Potapovich, A., Albuhaydar, A. R., Mayer, W., De Luca, C., & Korkina, L. (2018). Natu-ral substances for prevention of skin photoaging: Screening systems in the development of sunscreen and rejuvenation cosmetics. Rejuvenation Research, 21(2), 91–101. CrossRef
Kumar, A. (2016). Medicinal plants: Future source of new drugs. International Journal of Herbal Medicine, 4(4), 59-64.
Lahneche, A. M., Boucheham, R., Ozen, T., Altun, M., Boubekri, N., Demirtas, I., Bicha, S., Ben-tamene, A., Benayache, F., Benayache, S., & Zama, D. (2019). In vitro antioxidant, DNA-damaged protection and antiproliferative activities of ethyl acetate and n-butanol extracts of Centaurea sphaerocephalaL. Anais Da Academia Brasileira de Ciências, 91(3), e20180462. CrossRef
Lassoued, M. A., Ben Fatma, N. E. H., Haj Romdhane, M., Faidi, A., Majdoub, H., & Sfar, S. (2021). Photoprotective potential of a Tunisian halophyte plant Carpobrotus edulis L. European Journal of Integrative Medicine, 42, 101286. CrossRef
Lefahal, M., Makhloufi, E., Ayad, R., Boussetla, A., Elhattab, M., Keski̇N, M., & Akkal, S. (2023). Highlighting the cosmeceutical potential of the edible Bunium alpinum Waldst & Kit (Apiaceae) growing in Algeria: in vitro antioxidant and photoprotective Effects. Gazi Uni-versity Journal of Science, 36(1), 108–118. CrossRef
Lefahal, M., Makhloufi, E.-H., Trifa, W., Ayad, R., El Hattab, M., Benahmed, M., Keskin, M., & Ak-kal, S. (2021). The cosmetic potential of the medicinal halophyte Tamarix gallica L. (Tama-ricaceae) growing in the eastern part of Algeria: photoprotective and antioxidant activities. Combinatorial Chemistry & High Throughput Screening, 24(10), 1671–1678.
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